A page from Afghan Civil War
P.K.Ghatak, MD
No 6.
Our mission in Kunduz was new. We started with a limited supply of medicine and other medical supplies, and we were replenishing our medicine stock from Pakistan. But some recent events in Pakistan put a stop to that supply route. We were desperate for medicine. Our mission in Mazar-e-Sharif was willing to give us their stock of medicine and about the same time news came from France that a plane loaded with medical supplies and medicine was coming to the Termez airport in Uzbekistan in 2 days, a short distance away from Mazar-e-Sharif.
We left early in the morning the next day so that we would arrive at our destination before the sunset. It was considered suicidal to venture out on the streets after dark. The shortest route to Mazar went through a desert but it was a very risky road to travel because of frequent kidnappings, murders, and robberies. We took the longer route but that meant passing through the territories of two other powerful warlords. Our vehicles were bright white in color and had insignia painted in red on the sides, back and hood. A large white flag, with a red logo, was attached to the passenger side of the front fender of the lead vehicle. We carried "safe passage” documents from all the regional warlords just in case somebody stopped us. However, it did not guarantee us much because the roadside checkpoints were manned by illiterate drug happy young people. We also carried “ goodwill care packs” containing vitamin pills, aspirin, antiseptics, band-aid, etc, and dutifully gave each one of them when they approached our vehicles.
Soon we came to the end of our warlord’s protection zone and now we were entering the enemy territories. The road became bad to worse, there were potholes of all sizes everywhere, at some places the road was cut deliberately and our car had to travel over a field. We had strict orders not to get out of the vehicle and step on darts in order to avoid stepping on anti-personnel mines. The driver was going side to side of the road more frequently than going forward along the path. It took another hour to cross this no-man zone. Soon the checkpoint of the other side came into view and the road condition improved. The vehicle stop was indicated by a tank thread buried across the roadway. It was nearly impossible to drive a vehicle over it without a push from the soldiers. We passed the checkpoint without any incident.
We soon came to a vacant patch of land scarred with recent skirmishes involving tanks and other heavy war pieces of equipment. There were big craters on the road where shells had landed. We saw buses, packed with people two /three times the carrying capacity, with household goods piled on the roofs 4-5 feet high, chickens and goats tied to the rear of vehicles swinging side to side, advancing at a snail speed. Soon the road looked deserted, only speeding military jeeps passed us. Here and there trucks were stopped on the road, in a group of 2 to 3, by soldiers with AK 47, ready to fire; while other soldiers were busy siphoning out diesel from the fuel tanks. As we traveled further, it appeared an unnatural calm had descended on the region like the morning fog. A chill went down my spine when we saw abandoned gun positions along the road. There were fresh marks of tank tracts in the adjacent field, soon we saw the charred remains of a tank, and it was still smoldering. We were concerned but remained silent. We came to the next checkpoint. The guard told the driver something, as he handed him the Goodwill care pack, and signaled with his hand to hurry and leave.
We reached Mazar-e Sharif as the sun was setting. We were briefed on the security situation. We were told minor clashes had broken out and four soldiers were killed. It was not clear at that moment whether it was just a clash or a prelude to bigger things to come.
In the morning, after breakfast, we had to go to the main office for a meeting. The UNHCR office kept us briefed on the security situation by ham radio. The town was calm, people were on the street and the market place was crowded. The UN staff from a local UN office invited us for a New Year party in the afternoon. I declined to go and stayed behind. One of our members, who had previously served in Mazar, filled me in on the history of the Mazar-e Sharif. The blue mosque was the main point of attraction of the town, and he mentioned non- Muslims were allowed to go inside the compound which was a rare treat in a Muslim world. He offered to take me there.
He drove a jeep. We were in the market next to the mosque when a sudden explosion shook our jeep. He looked at me and I looked at him. None of us were bleeding and we knew we were alive, that was all there to know. The busy market emptied out faster than the props changed on a stage in Broadway shows. The metal shutters of shops came down; sandbagged gun positions suddenly filled with young soldiers with pointing AK-47. Bursts of machine-gun fire were coming from all directions. Then another thunderous noise came from the corner of the mosque and black smokes were billowing out. My eyes met the eyes of a young soldier; he had no fear in his eyes. He was edgy with the excitement of an anticipated kill. Suddenly the holy place turned into a playground of devils.
My friend drove the jeep faster than it was meant to go. I thought if bullets did not kill me his driving would. I never knew the fear of death could be that deadly. Once we reached our walled compound he jumped out of the vehicle and went straight for the ham radio. He repeated coded messages several times. Soon our place filled with the rest of our people and a few others. A hasty meeting was called. We were ordered to move down the hall to a basement bomb shelter.
The shelter was about 12 x 15 feet, with a 48 inches thick wall all around. There was a small kitchen, a sink and a tap with no running water. There were cabinets on all four walls of the kitchen and they were stacked with canned food. A place about 4 feet square was used as privy but had no toilet seat, instead, had a hole in the dirt floor marked by bricks one on each side. The flimsy door had no latch and the bottom part of it had rotted away. There were blankets and sleeping bags piled up at one corner of the room. The bomb shelter was 4-5 feet underground; sandbags piled 4 bags across and 4 bags high all around. There was a dugout shallow well on the ground and we had a huge bladder of drinking water from the US army supply.
Another meeting was called. We were 14 of us in total, 6 were girls and the rest were boys. Each of us received a notebook, a pencil, a packet containing a small flashlight, a pocket knife, one sheet of metal foil for use as a thermal blanket, a few halogen tablets in a glass vial, a few aspirin tablets, a ligature, and a few bandages. People were assigned to various jobs. I was put in charge of food and sanitation. At each meeting, I had to give a report. I felt if we stayed in the bomb shelter for more than 24 hours, cockroaches, vermin, rats, and flies would take over this place.
As I looked around, I found two books, one was an official document on Kabul, the other one a paper book edition of " The Caravana" by Michael Misner. As I began reading the book, I felt I was lucky in that I was able to read an engaging drama unfolded in Afghanistan of an earlier time but the social condition of the country had remained pretty much the same. It was very interesting reading.
At night we slipped into our individual sleeping bags. We directed our heads towards the wall and feet to the center of the room. We looked like walruses on a sandy beach packed side to side without any room in between.
At about 9 PM the fireworks really began. We could hear tanks moving on the pavement, occasional loud booms of gum fire with that the windows upstairs rattled. Then clit-clit sounds of the more tank movements and loud boom - one was never sure where it would land. Then a series of machine gun fires rattled structures all around us. The ricocheting bullets from hitting the metals and shattering of window planes kept us on edge. The fire was coming from both sides of our bomb shelter, we were caught in a crossfire.
After a while, nothing bothered me, and instead of imagining what was going to happen, I wanted to be outside with the soldiers. At least my life would not be that uncertain. Staying put in a hole even with fortified walls was like a sitting duck; a direct hit from a field gun would certainly take few of us out.
Day no. 2.
We were having a breakfast meeting when our cook showed up with a stack of fresh bread, and a cheer went up. He told us a tank drove through the home of our night watchman, narrowly missing his wife and a child. There were deaths and destruction all around our compound; our metal front gate looked like a colander; all the windows of our building were shattered. He said he had to come and find for himself those people he cared for so long made through the night or not. Then he left in a hurry.
There was a lull in the fighting the whole day. In the evening briefing, we learned the local UN office was ransacked by the soldiers. They made gun placements on the roof of the building, broke furniture to make barricades. They found the duty free liquor chest and broke it open and got drunk. When their commander found them drunk, he ordered them out of the building. But the soldiers took all the things they could carry with them including a heavy antique solid brass wood burning stove.
Day no.3
We learned the war had spread to Kunduz. The airport was bombed; 8 people were killed. They had no word about our hospital which was located in one of the airport hangers. Local Afghans who worked for us were all safe.
Late in the morning jet planes screamed past over our shelter, then we heard bombs bursting at a distance. This time the theatre of operation was toward a hill rather than the residential area. At night, the ground fighting began with gusto. It appeared one side was going to wipe out the other. Afghans do not take prisoners.
Day no. 4.
Our supply of food was almost all gone. We had biscuits, rancid butter, and tea for breakfast. At the meeting, we learned about a ground war now raging in Kunduz. We had no further information on casualties or about people who worked for our mission. An air force commander in charge of this sector was killed when his helicopter was shot down by the ground fire. They feared that a retaliatory ground offensive was underway. New gun positions and pillboxes were cropping up all around us. It was decided to move us to a safer location. The UN was trying to arrange a temporary ceasefire to evacuate us along with other groups of NGOs (non-government organizations). The looted UN office was abandoned and people were taken to the UNHCR (UN High Commissioner for Refugees) office located in a different part of the town.
The word of a temporary cease-fire came and went several times of the day. The situation around our compound was tense but quiet. I saw one or two people sneak out of the shelter and headed upstairs in search of food and gather their personal belongings. I had no change of clothing with me, my overnight bag was in another part of the town where I stayed the first night in Mazar-e Sharif. I was smelly and felt dirty. In the same predicament as mine was a young medical student from Holland. He had finished his tour of duty and was waiting for his transportation out to Paris then to Holland. He was extremely depressed. He was following me like a shadow. I told him if worse came to worse I would call home and my family would contact our State Senator. The Senators carry power and influence in the US Government. He would get the Pentagon to rescue us and take us to a safe place. I reminded him Americans would never forget their fellow countrymen in times of need. He believed me and the others believed it also when he repeated to them that I had told him. However, I did not believe a rescue was possible in that situation. But I kept my optimistic looks up.
We were totally cut off physically except the UNHCR kept us informed. We had only tea for lunch and a few lucky ones had pieces of a chocolate bar and hard candies that were retrieved from upstairs.
It was not easy to fall asleep on an empty stomach especially when intermittent bursts of machine gun fire came from behind the building. In the middle of the night, a fierce gun battle raged.
Day no.5.
The word came early in the morning that a temporary cease-fire was agreed upon. We were given just 5 minutes to board when the convoy would come. The security man showed us how to duck incoming bullets. We were ready. But the convoy did not show up. Hopes followed by despair and it wore out many of the ladies and younger men. After the third attempt, the convoy was let in. We boarded well-marked UN vehicles in a minute. With UN flags flying from both the front and rear fenders and with military escorts our convoy passed through the charred marketplace, we saw destruction all around. The situation was tense but no one took a shot at our passing vehicles. We reached the UNHCR office intact. We then headed towards the Uzbekistan border and left Afghanistan behind.
We left early in the morning the next day so that we would arrive at our destination before the sunset. It was considered suicidal to venture out on the streets after dark. The shortest route to Mazar went through a desert but it was a very risky road to travel because of frequent kidnappings, murders, and robberies. We took the longer route but that meant passing through the territories of two other powerful warlords. Our vehicles were bright white in color and had insignia painted in red on the sides, back and hood. A large white flag, with a red logo, was attached to the passenger side of the front fender of the lead vehicle. We carried "safe passage” documents from all the regional warlords just in case somebody stopped us. However, it did not guarantee us much because the roadside checkpoints were manned by illiterate drug happy young people. We also carried “ goodwill care packs” containing vitamin pills, aspirin, antiseptics, band-aid, etc, and dutifully gave each one of them when they approached our vehicles.
Soon we came to the end of our warlord’s protection zone and now we were entering the enemy territories. The road became bad to worse, there were potholes of all sizes everywhere, at some places the road was cut deliberately and our car had to travel over a field. We had strict orders not to get out of the vehicle and step on darts in order to avoid stepping on anti-personnel mines. The driver was going side to side of the road more frequently than going forward along the path. It took another hour to cross this no-man zone. Soon the checkpoint of the other side came into view and the road condition improved. The vehicle stop was indicated by a tank thread buried across the roadway. It was nearly impossible to drive a vehicle over it without a push from the soldiers. We passed the checkpoint without any incident.
We soon came to a vacant patch of land scarred with recent skirmishes involving tanks and other heavy war pieces of equipment. There were big craters on the road where shells had landed. We saw buses, packed with people two /three times the carrying capacity, with household goods piled on the roofs 4-5 feet high, chickens and goats tied to the rear of vehicles swinging side to side, advancing at a snail speed. Soon the road looked deserted, only speeding military jeeps passed us. Here and there trucks were stopped on the road, in a group of 2 to 3, by soldiers with AK 47, ready to fire; while other soldiers were busy siphoning out diesel from the fuel tanks. As we traveled further, it appeared an unnatural calm had descended on the region like the morning fog. A chill went down my spine when we saw abandoned gun positions along the road. There were fresh marks of tank tracts in the adjacent field, soon we saw the charred remains of a tank, and it was still smoldering. We were concerned but remained silent. We came to the next checkpoint. The guard told the driver something, as he handed him the Goodwill care pack, and signaled with his hand to hurry and leave.
We reached Mazar-e Sharif as the sun was setting. We were briefed on the security situation. We were told minor clashes had broken out and four soldiers were killed. It was not clear at that moment whether it was just a clash or a prelude to bigger things to come.
In the morning, after breakfast, we had to go to the main office for a meeting. The UNHCR office kept us briefed on the security situation by ham radio. The town was calm, people were on the street and the market place was crowded. The UN staff from a local UN office invited us for a New Year party in the afternoon. I declined to go and stayed behind. One of our members, who had previously served in Mazar, filled me in on the history of the Mazar-e Sharif. The blue mosque was the main point of attraction of the town, and he mentioned non- Muslims were allowed to go inside the compound which was a rare treat in a Muslim world. He offered to take me there.
He drove a jeep. We were in the market next to the mosque when a sudden explosion shook our jeep. He looked at me and I looked at him. None of us were bleeding and we knew we were alive, that was all there to know. The busy market emptied out faster than the props changed on a stage in Broadway shows. The metal shutters of shops came down; sandbagged gun positions suddenly filled with young soldiers with pointing AK-47. Bursts of machine-gun fire were coming from all directions. Then another thunderous noise came from the corner of the mosque and black smokes were billowing out. My eyes met the eyes of a young soldier; he had no fear in his eyes. He was edgy with the excitement of an anticipated kill. Suddenly the holy place turned into a playground of devils.
My friend drove the jeep faster than it was meant to go. I thought if bullets did not kill me his driving would. I never knew the fear of death could be that deadly. Once we reached our walled compound he jumped out of the vehicle and went straight for the ham radio. He repeated coded messages several times. Soon our place filled with the rest of our people and a few others. A hasty meeting was called. We were ordered to move down the hall to a basement bomb shelter.
The shelter was about 12 x 15 feet, with a 48 inches thick wall all around. There was a small kitchen, a sink and a tap with no running water. There were cabinets on all four walls of the kitchen and they were stacked with canned food. A place about 4 feet square was used as privy but had no toilet seat, instead, had a hole in the dirt floor marked by bricks one on each side. The flimsy door had no latch and the bottom part of it had rotted away. There were blankets and sleeping bags piled up at one corner of the room. The bomb shelter was 4-5 feet underground; sandbags piled 4 bags across and 4 bags high all around. There was a dugout shallow well on the ground and we had a huge bladder of drinking water from the US army supply.
Another meeting was called. We were 14 of us in total, 6 were girls and the rest were boys. Each of us received a notebook, a pencil, a packet containing a small flashlight, a pocket knife, one sheet of metal foil for use as a thermal blanket, a few halogen tablets in a glass vial, a few aspirin tablets, a ligature, and a few bandages. People were assigned to various jobs. I was put in charge of food and sanitation. At each meeting, I had to give a report. I felt if we stayed in the bomb shelter for more than 24 hours, cockroaches, vermin, rats, and flies would take over this place.
As I looked around, I found two books, one was an official document on Kabul, the other one a paper book edition of " The Caravana" by Michael Misner. As I began reading the book, I felt I was lucky in that I was able to read an engaging drama unfolded in Afghanistan of an earlier time but the social condition of the country had remained pretty much the same. It was very interesting reading.
At night we slipped into our individual sleeping bags. We directed our heads towards the wall and feet to the center of the room. We looked like walruses on a sandy beach packed side to side without any room in between.
At about 9 PM the fireworks really began. We could hear tanks moving on the pavement, occasional loud booms of gum fire with that the windows upstairs rattled. Then clit-clit sounds of the more tank movements and loud boom - one was never sure where it would land. Then a series of machine gun fires rattled structures all around us. The ricocheting bullets from hitting the metals and shattering of window planes kept us on edge. The fire was coming from both sides of our bomb shelter, we were caught in a crossfire.
After a while, nothing bothered me, and instead of imagining what was going to happen, I wanted to be outside with the soldiers. At least my life would not be that uncertain. Staying put in a hole even with fortified walls was like a sitting duck; a direct hit from a field gun would certainly take few of us out.
Day no. 2.
We were having a breakfast meeting when our cook showed up with a stack of fresh bread, and a cheer went up. He told us a tank drove through the home of our night watchman, narrowly missing his wife and a child. There were deaths and destruction all around our compound; our metal front gate looked like a colander; all the windows of our building were shattered. He said he had to come and find for himself those people he cared for so long made through the night or not. Then he left in a hurry.
There was a lull in the fighting the whole day. In the evening briefing, we learned the local UN office was ransacked by the soldiers. They made gun placements on the roof of the building, broke furniture to make barricades. They found the duty free liquor chest and broke it open and got drunk. When their commander found them drunk, he ordered them out of the building. But the soldiers took all the things they could carry with them including a heavy antique solid brass wood burning stove.
Day no.3
We learned the war had spread to Kunduz. The airport was bombed; 8 people were killed. They had no word about our hospital which was located in one of the airport hangers. Local Afghans who worked for us were all safe.
Late in the morning jet planes screamed past over our shelter, then we heard bombs bursting at a distance. This time the theatre of operation was toward a hill rather than the residential area. At night, the ground fighting began with gusto. It appeared one side was going to wipe out the other. Afghans do not take prisoners.
Day no. 4.
Our supply of food was almost all gone. We had biscuits, rancid butter, and tea for breakfast. At the meeting, we learned about a ground war now raging in Kunduz. We had no further information on casualties or about people who worked for our mission. An air force commander in charge of this sector was killed when his helicopter was shot down by the ground fire. They feared that a retaliatory ground offensive was underway. New gun positions and pillboxes were cropping up all around us. It was decided to move us to a safer location. The UN was trying to arrange a temporary ceasefire to evacuate us along with other groups of NGOs (non-government organizations). The looted UN office was abandoned and people were taken to the UNHCR (UN High Commissioner for Refugees) office located in a different part of the town.
The word of a temporary cease-fire came and went several times of the day. The situation around our compound was tense but quiet. I saw one or two people sneak out of the shelter and headed upstairs in search of food and gather their personal belongings. I had no change of clothing with me, my overnight bag was in another part of the town where I stayed the first night in Mazar-e Sharif. I was smelly and felt dirty. In the same predicament as mine was a young medical student from Holland. He had finished his tour of duty and was waiting for his transportation out to Paris then to Holland. He was extremely depressed. He was following me like a shadow. I told him if worse came to worse I would call home and my family would contact our State Senator. The Senators carry power and influence in the US Government. He would get the Pentagon to rescue us and take us to a safe place. I reminded him Americans would never forget their fellow countrymen in times of need. He believed me and the others believed it also when he repeated to them that I had told him. However, I did not believe a rescue was possible in that situation. But I kept my optimistic looks up.
We were totally cut off physically except the UNHCR kept us informed. We had only tea for lunch and a few lucky ones had pieces of a chocolate bar and hard candies that were retrieved from upstairs.
It was not easy to fall asleep on an empty stomach especially when intermittent bursts of machine gun fire came from behind the building. In the middle of the night, a fierce gun battle raged.
Day no.5.
The word came early in the morning that a temporary cease-fire was agreed upon. We were given just 5 minutes to board when the convoy would come. The security man showed us how to duck incoming bullets. We were ready. But the convoy did not show up. Hopes followed by despair and it wore out many of the ladies and younger men. After the third attempt, the convoy was let in. We boarded well-marked UN vehicles in a minute. With UN flags flying from both the front and rear fenders and with military escorts our convoy passed through the charred marketplace, we saw destruction all around. The situation was tense but no one took a shot at our passing vehicles. We reached the UNHCR office intact. We then headed towards the Uzbekistan border and left Afghanistan behind.
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